Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Venice: a year ago

We took a plane to Rome. We rented through AirBnb in a neighborhood called San Giovanni. We stayed in a spacious apartment full of art and color and books and cooking fragrances and marble and sunlight. We had a balcony and strawberry plants and tomato plants and pepper plants. We took breakfast at a corner cafe, where I cried over my cappuccino every morning because it tasted so good.

We explored on foot and by Metro from sun-up til midnight, when the trains stopped running. We hired guides to take us through archaeological sites--crypts, chapels made of bones, ancient fortresses and palaces. We walked to the Vatican. We were greeted by soldiers with machine guns and tanks. Then we saw the mile long line of desperate souls, coin in hand, to go in and say a prayer. Pay to pray, I guess. It was a bit disgusting in my opinion. Then we encountered the homeless encampment. Outside the biggest church in the world. So much for faith, hope, and charity.

We hired one to show us haunted Rome. Acqua Tofana. My comeback. Watch. We walked along the Tiber one night, thinking it would be romantic. It smelled like piss and we almost got mugged. We ate gelato for lunch. We ate dinner in a tiny alley restaurant a block from our apartment. It was the best food I ever had. I loved Rome and also couldn't wait to leave to see what was next. Waiting in the train station sealed the deal--we loved Rome, but we also loved leaving Rome.

We took several trains to get to Cinque Terre. We had a tiny apartment in Corniglio, the smallest of the five towns. We ate breakfast in the cafe owned by our AirBnb host. Croissants and pastries and cappuccino. We picked up cheese/meat pastries from a sandwich shop, stuffed them in our back packs. We hiked through the mountains on a trail thousands of years old. We caught a train back when it got dark and a storm kicked up.

A few days later, we caught a series of trains to Venice. We switched trains three times. We went to Genoa. We ran ran across ten platforms, literally caught the train as it was leaving. It was packed. The bathroom door wouldn't latch. The train lurched. The train toilet water splashed up on Larry. He was also over trains and Rome.

We saw Venice shimmering in the distance. We almost started crying.

We had anAirBnb on a canal near a bridge. 300 years old. Walk inside, looks like a catalog for IKEA. This is the thing in Europe. Leave it old on the outside; inside ruin it with modern furnishings by IKEA. We got lost trying to find San Marco. We enjoyed being lost.
We had a romantic dinner outside on a quiet canal, red table cloth, candle-lit lanterns. Red wine, rich dessert. Flirtatious waiter. We passed a theater. Coming Soon: Merchant of Venice. Oh wouldn't that be wonderful?

We went to the Doges Palace. Saw the dungeon, the courtroom, the bridge of sighs, where women threw their dresses open for their lovers passing through to their doom, the weapons, the art, the courtyard.

We walked all of Venice day and night.

We loved it and loved leaving it. We loved boarding a luxury ship. Can't help it. Loved it.

More to come.





This was part of a larger painting that captivated me. The lion seemed so real.