Cancun is a quick three-hour direct flight, so we booked air fare, reserved a rental car, and found what seemed to be the perfect lodgings--an ecotel called Sandos Caracol Ecoresort, which boasts an emphasis on wildlife and conservation with many programs and activities for high-octane people but is also an all inclusive with a water park and a huge beach, so we could also eat and drink and be merry. We picked a room in the quiet part of the resort for adults only. It was in the jungle, and I loved waking up to the jungle sounds every morning and looking for monkeys in the trees.
Larry arranged a dive at Dos Ojos, the largest underwater cave/cenote in the Yucatan. We enjoyed driving around and checking out the scenery. I love the low-lying jungle of the Yucatan, but the place is really built up now. I was last there 15 years ago, and that part of the QRoo was hardly developed. It was sad to see, actually, but yet there I was, contributing to the growth. Larry signed up for a dive and I did a snorkel tour. I was the only English speaker on the tour. The tour guide spoke some English. I did my best to keep up, and was surprised by how poor my Spanish and by how much I could pick up despite of that. Later in the trip I would really wish I spoke fluent Spanish.
Dos Ojos is an underground cave/cenote system. Parts of it requiring diving under water and swimming about 100 yards. The caves are all connected underground, and a guide takes you through the tunnels. You need a torch to see where you're going, and some areas are really tight with stalactites and stalagmites.
One cave is called the Bat Cave, and I figured it was just a cute name, but no it really was a bat cave. Thousands of bats above, and I just loved it!
My camera was locked away with my other belongings so I have no pix of this adventure, but it was beautiful. Climbing out of the cenotes/caves and onto a jungle floor felt like being in the bottom of a terrarium. It really took my breath away, and I enjoyed walking the paths and exploring on my own while Larry was on his dive.
After the Dos Ojos adventure we did a self-guided tour of Tulum Mayan Ruins.
Overall the impromptu trip was the perfect mix of adrenaline and relaxation punctuated by astounding beauty and lovely people. Our hotel was geared more for a Spanish-speaking population, so we at least felt like we were traveling in another country, but it seemed most visitors were from Europe. I have stayed in some resorts in Cancun where it feels like you've never left the U.S. Most of the staff spoke some English--some fluent, some knew only a few words, so it was good for me to try to up my skills. I did not do so well--stage fright I guess.
When the hotel was being built they found a dozen or so cenotes and vast mangroves in the jungle as the ruins of a small Mayan city. Xcalacoco was an important port town some 1200 years ago. The hotel then changed plans and decided to protect these important historical and geological gems, and rebranded itself an ecotel, with an emphasis on preserving and protecting. I think this was carried out well in some ways, but not in others.
The resort was just beautiful. Not the architecture or pools or the typical things you think about when you think about a resort in the tropics. I loved the thatched roofs and open air concept of the common buildings. They fit in perfectly with the "eco-tel" vibe. The rooms were just okay. Not fancy but comfortable, and compared to the camping trips we've been on, any indoor accommodations with indoor plumbing feels luxurious! But what was really gorgeous were all the cenotes and vast network of cobbled paths through the green jungle. I just loved taking walks, morning, noon, and night. We especially loved taking swims before dinner in the many hidden cenotes. It felt like a paradise all our own!
Our days were fun-filled. I'd get up early, grab a nice cappuccino from la elefant bar in the lobby and walk down to the beach for sunrise. I enjoyed greeting the pescadores (fisherman) and their faithful companions, los pelicanos! After that we'd meet Jesus to make our daily visit with the animals and los guaucamayos--the parrots! Then we'd find a place for breakfast with cappuccino, mimosas, tamales, omelets, tortillas, french toast, etc. Then we'd pick an activity--snorkeling in the jade river, bike riding out to the ruins, walking through the Xcalacoco Puerto Del Sol, a romantic gondola ride through the jungle. We'd hit the beach and try to swim or take a long walk. We'd hit the water park. We'd take a jog. We'd relax at the spa. We'd spend hours at the adults only pool, enjoying the drinks, monkeys, peacocks, and tame feral cats. We'd take a dip in the cenote. We'd find a place for lunch. We'd hit the swing bar for some ice cream. We'd head back to the beach. One day we both had a massage on the beach, a dream come true for Larry, and oh it was wonderful. One day he did a massage in the resort spa while I partook of the Temezcal ceremony, something I've wanted to try for a couple of decades now. We'd figure out dinner. We'd walk off dinner. We'd walk the quiet shores. We'd retire early.
The food here was like the room--not great but we didn't go hungry. Oh, well. Can't win them all. The tamales were fantastic, and there was lots of "street fare" in the plaza but for some reason we never at there. There was a good steak/fish house that we managed to eat at twice. Our favorite was the Mediterranean place, right on the ocean. One night we had a beautiful romantic ocean view and one night a cozy jungle view of a cenote and waterfall.
Mis amigos, los animales! I made many friends at our ecoresort! The hotel has adopted many species of animals that had been mistreated or abandoned.
Our favorite part of our impromptu vacation was the animal sanctuary. While the manipulative monkeys and crafty coatimundis live happily on the resort of their own accord, the ecotel has rescued many domesticated animals that seem unbefitting for a beach resort in Mexico. In addition to the feral cats that have been neutered, tipped, immunized, and fed, they also have burros, Nestor and Domi; a pig named Coco; a potbelly pig named Cindy; two black and brown-furred sheep, whose names I did not catch but called Big Mouth 1 and 2; a chinchilla; fluffy lop-eared bunnies; cute ducks with wagging tails and red faces who "peep" instead of quack and try to swim in the pools; proud peacocks, one of whom presides over the open air spa, preening and posturing, jumping up on the reception desk, and trying to follow people into the sauna; four sweet and funny Guacamayos (macaws); and three Xoloitzcuintlis, who serve as ambassadors and educators about animal rescue. I learned that the barnyard animals were rescued after a church put on a live nativity scene, and then abandoned the poor animals and left them to starve to death!
A Xoloitzcuintli ( “show-low-eetz-kweent-lee" or "Show-Low" for short.) is a rare and ancient dog breed, going back at least 3500 years. They have the distinction of being hairless except for the top of their heads, giving them a cartoonish Dr. Gonzo look. Xolos were muses for many artists, particularly Frida Kahlo, while Aztecs, Toltecs, and Mayans considered them sacred guides to the underworld. The Xolos here were rescued at different times from abuse or neglect, and the handlers work very hard to integrate them into a calm, safe, sociable, and happy life. The Xolo is extremely loyal, which is why they were the chosen dogs of royalty, and it is evident that they have little interest in anyone who is not their people. They have a dismissive way of regarding you while you're baby talking them and trying to pet them that makes you feel quite proletarian.
I am someone who likes to wake up very early on vacation to get the adventure started. (This became a point of irritation for Larry when we lived in the campervan for 19 days this Fall!) I loved to get up early, get a nice mug of cappuccino, and walk down to the empty beach to greet the fisherman, pelicans, and sunrise. See, even writing that puts a big smile on my face, which is why I write this stuff out! My restlessness paid off because this is how I came to be an unofficial animal keeper on the resort! One morning, I was petting Nestor and Domi, when suddenly they started eee-orring and snuffing at the top of their lungs. Then the sheep started bahhing, the pigs started oinking and squealing, and I started laughing my burro off! Up comes a man with a wheelbarrow full of food. I got a look at the haul, and it was very good food! All fresh and colorful like a gourmet salad! The man smiled at me and let me shadow him a bit. He handed me some homemade tortillas, then pointed at Cindy, and she started hollering! I fed her some, then Coco wanted hers, then here come the burrows with their lips all sticking out, and then the sheep start screaming at me. He didn't speak English, and my Spanish is not so great, it turns out. Still, we communicated with smiles, laughs, gestures, and expressions. I learned his name is Jesus, and it did not hit me until now how funny that is that Jesus takes care of the animals in the stable!
The animals and Jesus had a special connection that was a joy watch. I've seen firsthand what it looks like when an abused animal decides to trust a human, and when a human sees the soul of an animal. It looks exactly like love. The look in his eyes when he cared for them melted my heart and filled my spirit. One morning he was tasked to give the burros a bath, and they absolutely loved it, as if they were getting a massage. Pigs love to swim and have their own swimming hole on the resort. I would have loved to see pigs swimming! (Saw some pics in the stable.)
On the second day of waiting for Jesus at the Manger, he motioned for me to follow him after he finished with barnyard animals. "Guacamayos," he said, which was a word I remembered from Costa Rica--"Macaws." He led me through the jungle a ways, pushing his wheelbarrow until we reached the Macaw Dormitories. As soon as they heard the squeaky wheel they started "caw-ing." One by one, he opened their cages and greeted them: Pollock, Ek, Zsusa, and Lupita, then held out a broom handle. They gracefully climbed on, and he carefully took them to the wheelbarrow, where they perched on the side. As each one was loaded up, they all watched him intently, trying to make eye contact with him, then bopped their heads and danced when he spoke. When all were loaded up, he started pushing the wheelbarrow again, and they loved it. They were going for a ride! They chattered the whole time with each other and Jesus, and the newest member of the flock kept looking at him constantly for reassurance, and he'd say, something like "Estas bien, Lupita." (You're fine.) Soon we were heading for an employee only area of the resort, but Jesus motioned for me to follow. Lots of staff were arriving at that point, and they all had a huge smile and "Buenas Dias" for Jesus y los guacamayos. I could tell that Jesus was also loved by people.
Finally we reached the gardens where the ecotel grows much of its food and decorative plants. It was a slice of heaven, so cool and peaceful. He got his broom back out, and loaded his charges up onto their perches, then told me "espera acqui" (wait here.) He came back with a handful of peanuts so that I could feed them. I held out my palm flat and let the birds decide if they wanted the treat. They approached very eagerly then delicately took the peanut from my palm! Jesus was watching closely to make sure that I was careful with the birds. The birds, I learned, all came to the resort after being rescued from cruel people who had used them as props for photos for tourists who are stupid and confrontational and try to pet them (birds do not like to be pet! It hurts them!) and stick a camera flash in their face. Lupita was new to the resort, and when they rescued her, she barely had any feathers. Birds pull out their own feathers when they are distressed and depressed. Tiny feathers were now growing back. One morning on the wheelbarrow ride, something spooked the parrots, and three of them flew into the trees above. Pollock, the alpha parrot (red one in my photos) seemed to be admonishing them to come back. He started pacing back forth as if he was agitated. After a few minutes, they flew closer, then Jesus held out the broom, and they climbed aboard. I liked seeing them, a) being able to fly (some people cruelly clip their wings!), and b) wanting to come back.
It was very meaningful to have Jesus trust me with his beloved animals. I also felt a special connection between us, as if we were meant to be friends somehow.
After hearing about my adventures with Jesus, my very own late sleeper started rising early to help feed my new friends. Like me, he especially loved feeding the parrots and was taken with how how gentle and delicate and absolutely stunning they were. Even though we did so many amazing things on this trip, Larry and I both listed the parrots as our favorite thing.
When it was time for us to go back home, I sadly I told Jesus I was leaving and "Gracias por tu amistad," (Thank you for your friendship.), and he gave me a sad smile and had a little twinkle in his eye. He welcomed a hug from me, and I said my said my sad goodbyes to Jesus and the parrots and the manger animals.
The Xamana at the Temezcal was named Jesus, too--and again, this just now strikes me as funny. Jesus the Xamana and Jesus the the animal keeper were my favorite people I met on this trip. Both were so warm and generous in spirit, both open to connection. I was blessed to have met them both. You know I can't end this post without proclaiming, "Jesus is just ‘alright’ with me" and “What a friend I have in Jesus.”
We spent one day at the sister resort Playacar Sandos, which had a gorgeous beach, the sandy white infinity that I dream about night and day! The beach and food were much nicer at this resort, but
We were sad to say goodbye to Mexico and our ecotel, beautiful beach, delicious tamales, and wonderful people. My animal friends gave us a wonderful sendoff! Peacocks, cats, and monkeys at the pool and the restaurant. One monkey swung from the rafters, climbed down the railing, and perched himself beside our table hoping for a bite. I am not a moron who feeds wild animals, so he lost interest really quickly.
When we returned our rental car at Thrifty Car Rental in Cancun, the bitchface checking us in went over the car with a magnifying glass and found a mark that was scrutinized by her asshole boss and his dickhead manager. These fuckers are running a racket. They told a couple of lies, most of them in Spanish. I heard him say $50 dollar in Spanish but then tell us it was $80..."That is why you are going to have to pay me eighty dollars." I said, "You just told him $50." Really sour note, I'm afraid, and it makes us not want to rent a car in Mexico again. Just putting this out here for anyone who wants to rent from Thrifty Car Rental in Cancun.
I'll let the photos say the rest.
Larry enjoyed the hammocks in the Select Club Adults Only beach club
I made friends with the cute burros.
Peacocks liked the Select Club pool and the spa!
Xoloitzcuintlis!
View from my chaise lounge
One of two books I found on the community bookshelf. Others were in Spanish, German, Korean, Arabic, Dutch, Portuguese, etc. Truly an international hotel.
I liked the bar, clubhouse, and canapes in the Select Club beach
One of the restaurants was Japanese show cooking
Sunrise on the beach. All to myself!
La Riviera Mediterranean restaurant. Right on the beach. Palapa roof. Open roof. Loved it.
People got up at the crack of dawn to claim these stupid Bali Beds. They just laid there all day like Caligula. Really not necessary.
Pescadores out for their morning catch
Many monos!
Centote Cristilano
Guacamayos slept in their dorms in the jungle then spent their days in the quiet nursery/garden. Jesus gave me backstage pass!
My friend Jesus and his feathered friends
Going for a ride.
I thought the magroves were fascinating. I've never seen this color water.
Coatamundis everywhere, even in the trash cans: Mexican Trash Pandas
Beautiful jungle pathways. Bridges over rivers and cenotes and statues memorializing the area's Mayan roots.
El Tortuga cenotes. We enjoyed swims here in the evening.
Temezcal. Didn't take photos during ceremony. It was very special. Three Brazilian women, a Mexican woman, me (American), and Jesus the Xamana. He spoke mostly Spanish but one of the Brazilian women translated. He spoke English too. This was a beautiful experience of being intimate among strangers--feeling honest and safe is not always easy to do. Ceremony commenced in nearby Cenote Secreto. Fellowship with what seems like magic waters.
Christmas tree made of wine bottles.
I enjoyed L'elefant bar right in the jungle on the cenote.
Another hidden cenote somewhere in the vast jungle property.
I loved the way the palms filtered the sun and made the light green.
Old Mayan port town ruins discovered while building the resort. It completely changed their plans, and they decided to make it eco resort instead of luxury resort
This was my favorite "building." Wondered if it was a bar or reception at one point. It's now an activities desk. Ceiling is painted like a tree, with wine bottles as the leaves, built right into the adobe roof.
Bamboo forest on the way to Los Lirios, one of the nicer restaurants.
El Manglar bar. Mangrove. Brackish chalk blue water, which I found very pretty and unlike anything I'd ever seen. Stupid people who should stay elsewhere complained of the swamp smell.
Monkeys hanging out at adult pool.
Tulum fortress city on a cliff beside the sea. We were struck by how similar the ruins were to the Greek ruins.
A monkey sat beside our table, hoping for a handout!
Naughty monkey, swinging on the rafters through the restaurant.
Peacocks liked to roost on people's balcony.
Romantic gondola ride on el Rio Jade
Champagne and chocolate strawberries
Nestor, our gondolier.
Loved the beach at Playacar. My favorite thing--miles long beach you can walk forever
Sacred Kapok tree--tree of life
Open air lobbies and restaurants.
There is a cat sanctuary on the resort. This little cross eyed cutie was a sweetie.
The very nice and quiet adults only pool
Suspension bridge over a large cenote
Nice view for dinner!
Peacocks, cats, coatamundis, and monkeys. What I called The Party Animal pool.
One of the shows. They put on a good show about Mayans--pretty good storytelling, plus acting and dancing. We enjoyed this
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